surfing

Mick Fanning and the Encounter

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As a surfer, I am constantly reminded of the power of the ocean- whether that be through the strength of the sea itself, or the life that inhabits it. We are privileged to share the ocean with the marine life, and it is imperative that we remember that we are simply visitors in the vast space. The sea life is one of my favorite things about the sport. Many times I’ve encountered sleepy otters, playful seals, and a plethora of fish swimming about my feet. (I’ve even spotted a shark in the face of a wave-shh!)

The surfing world was again reminded of the ocean’s absolute authority this week surfing the J-Bay Final in South Africa. An encounter between a shark and surfer Mick Fanning brought a premature end to the competition, and while no one was seriously injured, I’m sure it was a jarring experience. Another thing I love about the surfing community is the support it offers, which was exhibited in the encounter’s aftermath as words of encouragement poured in from around the globe.

There is so much we do not understand about the ocean and its creatures, so it is up to us to respect them and their habitat. That’s not to say don’t surf or swim in the ocean- far from it! Simply to realize we are visitors, not inhabitants.

To read the World Surf League’s report, click here.

-22

They Say Alexandria Burned

What does it feel like to be destroyed by a shore pounding surf?

It feels, at first, like an invisible hand has plucked you from the world.

You’re weightless

And flying.

And then gravity returns with a vengeance

Slamming you into the sand, forcing the air from your lungs.

You’re spun and thrown about until you don’t know which way is up

And your lungs are burning.

(They say Alexandria burned. You wonder if this is how the city felt.)

Finally, you feel your face break the surface.

You gleefully gulp the oxygen down and try to find the shoreline.

You don’t see the next set coming.

(Bigger. Faster. Stronger.)

This time your lungs are full of saltwater

And your chest is on fire.

You feel your body somersaulting as the waves pound relentlessly overhead. You curl into a ball to protect yourself.

Eyes and lips squeezed shut.

For a moment, it’s peaceful.

And then the ocean, after having chewed you up, spits you onto the sand

Where you lie, gasping and gagging.

And when you look back, all you’ll feel is the rush of adrenaline.

With Nothing to Lose



What a wonderful end to a fantastic week. It felt like the last two minutes of the game, the clock ticking down, and suddenly, you could believe that anything could happen. Since it was the last day, I think I was more inclined to just try different stuff, more moves that could make me fall off the wave or wipe out. But at that point, you tell yourself, I’ve nothing to lose, so why not?

I’m seriously going to miss this place, surfing every day and eating some really great food. Life is simple and kind here, full of twists that you just roll with. And the land is so wildand free that you just have a different view of the world. 

I could go on for pages about the wonders of this place, but I’ll stop here and bid goodnight. On another note, the volcano up by San José, C.R. erupted a couple days ago, closing the airport. How crazy is that? 

Tomorrow is a travel day, so I will be returning to the frozen city of Boston, hopefully without any problems. 

Ciao!

-22

Costa Rican Time



I’m writing this from my perch next to the pool, watching the stars dance above me, listening to the howler monkeys shout abuse at each other. 

Today was rough. The conditions were great, but I just do not have the strength or endurance to put myself in the right position to catch or avoid incoming waves. It was beautiful but very very tough. 

It’s amazing how quickly the time goes. There is only one day left until it’s over, and I really don’t want to go. Surfing twice a day, yoga, and good food fills up a day in wondrous ways that certainly cannot be replicated in any other circumstances. Sometimes I find myself wishing Time would just stop where it is, stop in this moment so I could live without cared or worries or responsibilities. Alas, that is not how the world works, and thus we tick ever on towards the end. 

-22

Galloping in the Moment

One of the greatest pleasures I have is in horseback riding, anywhere really. I don’t get many chances, so when I am offered the opportunity I tend to take it without asking questions. Today was our ‘day off’, though the ‘off’ part shouldn’t be there. The way the program is set up we can choose from different activities like paddleboarding and zip lining, and of course, riding. 

My horse, Rio, was rather fiesty today. Every time I would push him into a gallop, he would want to head straight into the ocean, while I was trying to keep him on the sand. Needless to say, galloping was exhilarating. I love the feeling of the horse’s movement beneath me, with the wind rushing around us both, not even focused on anything but the present moment. It’s indescribable the joy I feel pouring through my veins: the colours seem brighter, the noises fade away into the ocean surf, the world goes quiet-save for the beating of hooves and hearts. 

Riding also gave me a chance to seem some beautiful tucked away parts of Costa Rica. We ride through a wildlife reserve, a mangrove forest (which looked like a National Geographic setting), and along the coastline. 

Since we had the whole day off, I spent the rest of the time reading, sunbathing, and bodysurfing in some hideous conditions. Hopefully by the end of the week il have lost the Boston alabaster skin tone and traded it for something a little more tropical. 

-22

A Trickle of Water

It is fascinating the things we take for granted. Being here in Costa Rica has shown me that there are struggles people face each day, that in the States, I often don’t even think about. 

Because it is the dry season, there hasn’t been rain in about four months, meaning that the water reserves are running low. When is lived in California, we often had to ‘conserve’ water, but not to the extent that Costa Rica conserves. Tomorrow there will be no water flowing through the pipes as the municipality is shutting off the water. 

Trying to figure out what to do about not having water is difficult. Suddenly I have to ask questions about how do I shower, what will I drink, will the toilet flush? My shower today had no water pressure, as the pipes slowly emptied, and it was simply a little trickle. The things we think are necessities in the States are sometimes luxuries in some of these small towns. How different the culture is!

I think experiences like this remind me of how blessed I am to live where I do. Though, it certainly changed the way I look at the world. Every time I turn on the tap, now I wonder if someone else is lacking something, and whether there is something I can do to help. 

-22

The Persistence of Determination 

Hi everyone! Short post today since I am feeling absolutely wiped out from our surf sessions. The conditions today were brilliant. Not too much wind and a middler tide made for beautiful waves that gave a lot of practice space. However, there was a rather strong current that continuously pulled us south, which meant we spent a good portion of the afternoon just paddling back to the sweet spots. 

On film, the pro surfers make it look so easy to paddle round and catch waves. In reality, it is such a struggle to compete with the wind, the current, the tides, and other people. There are so many variables that your mind is constantly trying to account for, that by the time you’re in position to catch a wave, you’re exhausted physically and mentally. In the back of your mind though, there is the thought going that ‘Every stroke makes me stronger, no matter how much I’m hating it at the moment.’ I guess surfing teaches a lot of persistence and determination, because without those, you’d never be where the waves were, let alone make it out back to the good stuff.

-22

The Surfing Community



Buenos Dias! Today was awesome! The weather was warm and windy, and very sunny. Our surf sessions had great waves, though the offshore wind in the morning made them stand up quickly, while the afternoon was choppy and messy with onshore winds. But the water is so warm and beautiful, that even though you’re fighting through the sets, you are still appreciating how wonderful it is here. 

It is interesting to see the dynamic of a group of people just thrown together on the basis of one similar interest. This week, there are people from Brazil, Canada, New Zeland, and the United States all staying at the complex. The unifying factor between us all is a love of surfing. We all come from such different backgrounds, with different beliefs, occupations, family lives, and experiences. While this could be destructive in some situations, I believe there is a certain respect we all hold for each other in the name of surfing, and I think, more generally, the sport itself attracts only a certain quality of person. 

There is definitely a hierarchy within the surfing community, based on how long you’ve been surfing, but more importantly how advanced you are. That’s not to say the more advanced people are mean to those just starting out, though that can happen if there is someone who doesn’t handle people well. In that case, the community really shoves that person away until they can learn that behavior, such as rudeness or aggressive manners, are only tolerated to a certain extent–there is a breaking point and those that step over that point are often exiled from the community. 

The above example is rare. For the most part, people are kind and compassionate, and willing to help those that are learning. It’s a tacit understanding that the more advanced surfers are to watch out and avoid the beginners, while the beginners are to do their best to learn the etiquette and follow as best they can. Most surfers are very forgiving, and the ties within the community are very strong, no matter where you go. If you surf, and you go somewhere where there is a surfing community, you are usually welcomed quite easily. 

Although, intriguingly enough, surfers are mum about their favourite spots. There are places that go unshared for decades because people don’t share the spots. Mavericks stayed hidden for more than 15 years! 

So I think that the surfing community itself is both open and closed at the same time, both welcoming and wary. But there isn’t any other community of which I’d rather be a part. 

-22

Surviving the Surf of Emotion

Surfing is dangerous. No doubt about it. The ocean is a powerful entity- as some writers say, “emotion incarnate”. As a surfer, I’ve learned to show the ocean a lot of respect. She has the power to show some beautiful sights, but also the power to destroy if we’re not careful.

When I surf, there are times that the power of the ocean is exhilarating: dropping down into a wave, the feel of the water pulsating beneath the board, racing across the surface of the wave. Then there are other times when the power is terrifying. When the water holds me under and tosses me head over heels and I can’t breathe, that is when I understand the true strength of the sea.

Last summer I was surfing in Costa Rica when I got caught in the impact zone, which is really dangerous. Every time I tried to come up for air, I got a face full of water as another wave crashed into me. I was held under the water and sent spinning, completely disorientated, and starting to get lightheaded from holding my breath. I finally managed to grab hold of my board leash and follow that to the surface, paddling out past the impact zone to take a breather.

In the time I was stuck under water, I felt absolutely helpless and at the total mercy of the sea. It wasn’t something I could fight with my own strength or intellect. The sea cannot be reasoned with, nor tamed into something we can understand fully. It’s not often that I feel helpless, but when faced with the rage of the ocean, there is literally no way to fight back. The only thing to do is wait. Much like life I suppose. I just need to remember that I won’t feel helpless forever-eventually I will surface and survive.

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