Hi everyone! Short post today since I am feeling absolutely wiped out from our surf sessions. The conditions today were brilliant. Not too much wind and a middler tide made for beautiful waves that gave a lot of practice space. However, there was a rather strong current that continuously pulled us south, which meant we spent a good portion of the afternoon just paddling back to the sweet spots.
On film, the pro surfers make it look so easy to paddle round and catch waves. In reality, it is such a struggle to compete with the wind, the current, the tides, and other people. There are so many variables that your mind is constantly trying to account for, that by the time you’re in position to catch a wave, you’re exhausted physically and mentally. In the back of your mind though, there is the thought going that ‘Every stroke makes me stronger, no matter how much I’m hating it at the moment.’ I guess surfing teaches a lot of persistence and determination, because without those, you’d never be where the waves were, let alone make it out back to the good stuff.
-22
Wanderlust 